Matt Bors, Steven Cloud and I have just arrived in Mazar-i-Sharif, the fourth largest city in Afghanistan, the gateway to Uzbekistan, and about the hottest and dustiest place on earth. Don’t believe the Internet: It says it’s 81 here. More like 111.
It was a brutal drive from Taloqan, where we spent two nights looking for my 2001 fixer Jovid. (Follow my daily cartoon blog to find out whether or not we were successful. It was much, much worse in 2001, before road-paving, though. Yes, most major roads in Kunduz and Takhar provinces are now paved. This might have made a favorable impression on Afghans prior to 2003, but now it appears to be too late. Everyone knows the Taliban will soon be back in charge.
Women are still in burqas, same as it ever was. Business is booming, but poverty remains widespread. And American troops are still acting like assholes: buzzing through town at high speeds, terrorizing the Afghans they’re supposedly there to help.
We plan to enjoy a few days of R&R before heading west toward Maimana. Mazar has some major architectural treasures we plan to start seeing tomorrow morning.