Silk Road to Ruin (1997 Essay)
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A slightly shorter version of the following piece originally appeared in P.O.V. magazine in 1997: YOU CAN’T GET THERE FROM HERE: Madness on the Post-Soviet Silk Road by Ted Rall The doors of our cabin flew open after eight hellish hours on the death train. It was the Turkmeni Border Patrol, distinguishable from their Uzbek counterparts only by their green (not red, as in Uzbekistan, or blue, as in Kazakhstan) epaulettes. “Amerikanskis! Passports!” they screamed. A crazy question coursed through my baked brain synapses: How the hell did I get into such a fucked-up situation? It started out, as every half-baked scheme from Columbus scamming the Pinta from Istanbul to cold fusion has, over free drinks. Last June I was working a P.O.V. party, trying to convince editor Randall Lane to send me somewhere distant and dangerous at the magazine’s expense. That’s when I remembered an idea I had discussed with Alan Feuer, an up-and-coming writer for The New York…
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